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Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials (a): Gold� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

Go directly to: Footnotes.

1.1. Materials (a): Gold

Gold is a yellow coloured precious metal. Basically it is a metal, used by people of high economic status. But as far as its religious uses are concerned, it is essential for all; for a piece of gold is associated with every religious rite. Use of gold ornaments was popular since Vedic times. A number of synonyms are used in our literature for gold. Gold is known by several names on the basis of its colour, origin and purity. Its origin can be divided into three heads -mythical, transmutational and obtained from mines. Descriptions regarding its purification and other processes are found in the texts, literary as well as scientific. In addition to its decorative as well as religious purposes, it is used as medicine in different forms.

In Vedas, gold is generally known by the names Harita and ᾱṇy which means yellow[1]. According to Atharvaveda[2], gold is originated from fire or sun. That is why it remains lustrous. It is also stated that this immortal metal has the power to provide long life to one who wears it. ṛhⲹūٰ point out the importance of gold in Ṣoḍaśakarma. At the Annaprāśa (The first feeding ceremony), the child is fed with honey and ghee by his father. To this mixture, gold is rubbed[3]. ŚṅkⲹԲ-ṛhⲹūٰ[4] gives the description in another way, as per which the mixture of honey and ghee is kept in a gold plate. Relevance of gold in the ceremonies associated with the birth of a child, i.e. ٲ첹 is pointed out in ᾱṇykeśīṛhⲹūٰ (ᾱṇykeśī-ṛhⲹūٰ) and Ā貹ٲ-ṛhⲹūٰ[5]. On the occasion of marriage, a piece of gold is kept on the head of the bride at the time of the ritual bath. ĀśⲹԲ-ṛhⲹūٰ[6] gives details of a house warming ceremony, in which a piece of gold is placed in the water used to sprinkle around the house. During the funeral, the seven passages of breath of a corpse should be filled with seven pieces of gold dipped in honey or clarified butter. Gold is needed in every stage of Agnicayana ritual. At the Ჹⲹ sacrifice, the priests, sacrificer and his wife used to wear gold chains.

We have references in Ѳٲ, regarding the extraction and mining of gold. But from the verse�

[...].[7]

It comes to know that the process of extracting gold needed great effort in that period. While describing the imperial sacrifice of ۳ܻṣṭ󾱰, it is said that the gifts received by ۳ܻṣṭ󾱰 include gold digged out by ants (ʾī). In the absence of clear evidence, this description may be considered as an exaggeration. However, it may have been due to the possibility of getting gold even from the diggings made by ants. This shows that gold was so near to the surface in those regions.

ʳܰṇa[8] call gold by the name ܱṇa, ñԲ and Kanaka. Like Vedas, ʳܰṇa also link the origin of gold with fire. In addition to this, Ҳḍaܰṇa (Ҳḍaܰṇa)[9] puts forward another method for producing gold. As per this method, when burning a mixture of yellow flowers of ٳܲū, lead weighing five Pala and a bunch of Lakuca, gold will be generated.

ṭiⲹ[10] divides gold basically into three�ٲū貹, Rasasiddha and Ā첹ǻ岵ٲ. ٲū貹 is naturally pure, Rasasiddha is chemically purified and Ā첹ǻ岵ٲ is that got directly from mines, which is impure. Besides these, he talks about another five divisions in accordance with the colour and the region from where it is excavated. T

he table given below describes this classification.

Name Colour Region
ūԲ岹 Resembles rose apple Meru mountain
Śٲܳ Similar to pollen of lotus flower Śٲܳ mountain
Looks like Śevati flower Gold mines
ղṇa Like that of ṇi flower ձ mountain
ŚṛṅīśܰپᲹ Mensil ܱṇabhūmi region


ṭiⲹ opines that Śٲܳ is the best among these, while gold with red colour is inferior. Regarding gold ores, ṭiⲹ mentions two types -solid ore and liquid ore. Their colours and other features are also listed by him. Mention is also made of gold purification, gold plating and enamelling on gold.

In ṭyśٰ[11], certain characters like ۲ṣiṇ� and nymphs are recommended to wear gold ornaments.

Gold is considered the wealth of a nation. śṣa points out this fact in Buddhacarita[12]. We get evidence in Saundarananda to gold washers, engaged in cleaning the dirty gold. Buddhacarita gives allusions to gold excavated from the regions of ᾱⲹ and ñԲparvata and also from the river beds. It may be because of the abundance of gold in that region that the mountain is named as ñԲparvata.

ś[13] gives eighteen synonyms of gold. They are�(1) Kanaka, (2) ᾱṇy, (3) Hema, (4) ṭa, (5) Japanīya, (6) Śٲܳ, (7) ṅgⲹ, (8) Bharma, (9) Karvara, (10) 峾ī첹, (11) ٲū貹, (12) Mahārajata, (13) ñԲ, (14) Rukma, (15) ٲ, (16) 峾ūԲ岹, (17) ṣṭ貹岹 and (18) ܱṇa. Śṛṅgīkanaka is the name given by ś to gold ornaments in general. Mention is also made of Kṛpāṇ� and ٲī, which are scissors used for cutting gold.

Caraka[14] indicates the use of gold as a drug. He describes the preparation of gold powder for making tonic. śܳٲ also recommends gold tonic, which is a mixture of gold dust, lotus seed and honey.

ٲṇḍ[15] gives evidence to the purification and melting process of gold. Gold was used for decorative purposes in the powder and liquid form in that period.

鲹ṇa[16] describes the transmutation of copper into gold, in which copper is converted into gold through a process, where a mixture of Rasaka and some organic matters is to be roasted with copper. The same process is described by 岵ܲԲ in his 鲹ٲ첹. From 鲹ṇa, we get evidence to the ‘Killing� of gold. There it is said that a Vida contained in the crucible, smeared with the milk of Arka plant will kill the gold. Similarly the transmutation of iron, lead and copper by means of calamine is also possible.

Rasaratnasamuccaya divides gold into five heads on the basis of their source. They are as follows�

[...].[17]

Of these, the first three are associated with myths, fourth one is obtained from the mines and the last is produced by converting the baser metals. In the ‘killing� process of gold referred to in the same text, the perforated gold leaves having the coating of a mixture of lemon juice and ashes of mercury are to be heated ten times. For getting the pure colour of gold, gold leaves with the coating of salt are to be heated in charcoal fire for one and a half hour. For heating these leaves, they should be placed between two earthen plates. In another method described by 岵ܲԲ[18], gold can be purified by heating the gold coated with the mixture of salts and ashes for three days.

첹ḍeśīٲٲԳٰ[19] talks about some techniques of transferring a base metal into gold. Thus according to the text, mercury can convert a base metal into thousand times weight of gold. But the mercury gains this power only on rubbing with the mixture of Vida[20] and heated in a closed crucible. Mercury prepared in this manner converts copper into gold.

The technique of converting a base metal into gold by means of melted copper, silver or lead is described in 鲹śܻ첹[21]. For this purpose, the melted minerals should be alloyed with the digested mixture of calamine, cinnabar, copper pyrites, realgar and milky juice of Arka.

ٳٳܳñᲹī[22] talks about the preparation of gold from the alloys of lead and copper. The text also speaks of preparing imitation gold by alloying gold with one hundred times its weight of copper. In another process, reddish yellow gold is produced by melting zinc and gold in a certain proportion. To this mixture, alkalis are added and heated in a closed crucible. ܱṇatantra[23] explains the process of converting base metal into gold by means of mercury. Mercury attains this power, when rubbed with the root of a certain plant, which is bulb shaped, contains an oily substance. When this oil is added into molten copper, the latter will turn into gold. The colour of gold thus produced resembles the lustre of rising sun.

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

Atharvaveda5

[2]:

19.26.1

[3]:

ĀśⲹԲ-ṛhⲹūٰ, I.15.1

[4]:

1.24.3,4

[5]:

ᾱṇykeśī-ṛhⲹūٰ, 2.3.2; Ā貹ٲ-ṛhⲹūٰ, 2.1.3

[6]:

2.9.6,7

[7]:

Udyogaparva, 34.32

[8]:

Ҳḍaܰṇa, 2.31.4; 첹Ի岹ܰṇa, 5.3.2075.2.6, 7; Ѳٲⲹܰṇa, 85.5; ṇḍܰṇa, 181.7

[9]:

1.84

[10]:

DAOAI, p.137, 138

[11]:

XXI.56-76

[12]:

I.27, II.2,V.42; Saundarananda, I.19, X.12, 20, 25, XIII.4, X.5, XV.66, XVI.80

[13]:

2.9.95

[14]:

AHHC, p.25

[15]:

ԳپܲԻ岹ī첹ٳ, pp.32,74, 91, 101, 148, 88

[16]:

AHHC, p.13

[17]:

Ibid, pp. 43-44

[18]:

Ibid, p.5

[19]:

Ibid, p.47-48

[20]:

Vida is a powder prepared with certain organic or inorganic matters. It can be of several types, according to the ingredients it contained. Some types of Vida are as follows.�1. A mixture of salt petre, green vitriol, sea salt, rock salt, mustard, borax, camphor and pyrites.; 2. Mixture of Kāsisa (green vitriol), rock salt, pyrites, ܱī, salt petre, sulphur, juice of ī an aggregate of three spices (black pepper, long pepper and dry ginger.); 3. Sulphur, sea salt, salt ammonia, borax, ashes, urine (AHHC, p.72.)

[21]:

Ibid, p.65

[22]:

Ibid, pp.88, 97, 98

[23]:

Ibid pp. 28-31

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