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Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials: Gems (Introduction)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

Go directly to: Footnotes.

1.2. Materials: Gems (Introduction)

Even though the subject of gems is seen mentioned in our literature in a scattered form, it is indeed considered a branch seeking special status. Some classify different features of gems under science, while others consider it an art.This branch mainly deals with the following factors. (1) Sources, (2) Qualities, (3) Defects, (4) Effects, (5) Colour, (6) Varieties, (7) Shape, (8) Price, (9) Testing and (10) Size.

Gems are used for decorative as well as religious purposes. Besides their utility as ornaments, some beliefs associated with the planets also prompt one to wear gems. The effect of a jewel depends on its quality. Even though gems are produced as a result of some natural Phenomena, some myths also exist regarding their origin. In Vedas we have reference to a few varieties of gems while in the other works ranging from ʳܰṇa, a number of gems are recorded.

Ҳḍaܰṇa[1] ascribes its origin to the different parts of the body of the demon Bala. Ծܰṇa[2] gives information about the gems worn by a king and also the ones used for special purposes and on certain occasions. 첹Ի岹ܰṇa[3] speaks of good and evil effects made by gems. This is illustrated by the stories of ĀԲٲ and Agastya, where the former became blind by stealing a gem, while the latter got back his vision after giving gems as present.

Śܰṇa lists Navaratnas ٳܲ�

[...].[4]

In Ѳٲⲹܰṇa[5] mention is made of gems, which are to be given as Բ (Gift). Thus in a Ratnadhenūdāna, a cow’s motif made of Ratna is prescribed. In Ratnācaladāna, the gems suggested for making the model of a mountain are, ѳܰ󲹱, Vajra, Իī, ʲ峾岵 ղḍūrⲹ and Vidruma.

We get plenty of references to gems in ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa and in Ѳٲ. The gifts made by the kings at the Ჹūⲹ sacrifice of ۳ܻṣṭ󾱰 include, articles made of various precious stones[6]. In ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa also we come across the jewel gifts presented by the 峾ܻ of Kautya, 貹Գٲ and the merchants of īⲹ, ʰīⲹ and ṣiṇātⲹ[7].

ṛt insist on wearing gems by kings; for gems are considered a dispeller of poison[8].

ṭiⲹ devotes a separate chapter in ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[9] to this subject, which elaborately deals with the administration of the department of jewellery and also the working of jewel mines. The characteristics of various gems and gem ores also form part of this chapter.

śṣa[10] also speaks of the mines of precious stones in his country.

Maṇirāgākarajñāna and Rūpyaratnaparīkṣ� are two of the sixty-four arts itemised by ٲⲹԲ[11]. Of these, the first one deals with the knowledge of the colouring of gems and details of mines, while the latter deals with the examination of jewels. Piercing and incinerating the stones are also regarded as an art by Śܰīپ[12]. There was even a society of jewellers, who were skilled in their respective crafts. ٲⲹԲ talks about a Vaikaṭika, who is skilled in cutting and refining precious stones, especially diamonds[13]. Bilhaṇa[14] also makes reference to 鲹ٲԲ貹īṣ�. There we get evidence to the teaching of 鲹ٲԲ貹īṣ� to princes.

ṛc󲹰첹ṭi첹[15] gives a perfect picture of jewellery making prevalent in that period, where in the house of ղԳٲ, jewellers are seen involved in fashioning ornaments. Their craft includes procedures such as polishing, setting, cutting and weaving of various gems.

Regarding some chemical processing of gems, P.C Ray[16] quotes a passage from 岵ܲԲ, where the dissolution of gems is described, which is possible by means of some vegetable acids and sour gruel.

The above mentioned works discuss a number of gems. Some of them are as follows.

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

1.68.9-10

[2]:

鲹ٲԲ貹īṣ�, vv.1-62

[3]:

6.103.49, 89

[4]:

II.11-12

[5]:

89.1-4

[6]:

II.45.32

[7]:

Ayodhyākāṇḍa, 82.8

[8]:

ѲԳܲṛt, 7.218

[9]:

II.12.7

[10]:

Buddhacarita, VIII.46,VI.13

[11]:

峾ūٰ, I.3.16

[12]:

IC

[13]:

峾ūٰ, V.2.20, I.3.16

[14]:

վṅk𱹲ٲ, III.5.58

[15]:

Act IV

[16]:

AHHC, p.5

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