Traditional Shoe Making in Bamyan: A Study of Afghan Dialects
Journal name: Acta Orientalia
Original article title: La fabrication des chaussures a Bamyan: Notes de dialectologie Afghane. En homage a Kaj Barr
ACTA ORIENTALIA is a journal focused on the study of Oriental languages, history, archaeology, and religions from ancient times to the present. The journal includes articles reviewed by a senior scholar in the relevant field.
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Original source:
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G. Redard
Acta Orientalia:
(Founded in 1922 and published annually)
Full text available for: La fabrication des chaussures a Bamyan: Notes de dialectologie Afghane. En homage a Kaj Barr
Year: 1968 | Doi: 10.5617/ao.5217
Copyright (license): CC BY 4.0
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Summary of article contents:
1. Introduction
The article discusses the production of shoes in Bamyan, Afghanistan, highlighting the socio-economic and cultural contexts of shoe-making in this region. The authors, C. M. Kieffer and G. Redard, emphasize that the topics of footwear and cobblers have often been overlooked by dialectologists, who focus primarily on generic terms. The lack of lexical richness in this area can be attributed to the prevalence of barefoot living among local farmers and nomads, as well as the ecological conditions of Bamyan, which necessitate durable footwear.
2. The Craft of Shoemaking in Bamyan
The craft of shoemaking in Bamyan involves various tools and traditional techniques that reflect the region's artisan culture. Cobblers (膷aplidoz, p猫yz氓rdoz, etc.) typically run small shops in the bazaar, employing apprentices and using standard tools like scissors, awls, and knives. The production process incorporates a mix of local materials, primarily leather (膷arm) and increasingly rubber from automobile tires, allowing for a range of shoe types to meet local needs. The shoe's construction is based on wooden forms (q氓leb), consisting of three main parts: the toe (p猫nja), the upper (sar膷氓l), and the heel (kunak).
3. Varieties of Footwear
The authors identify several distinct types of shoes produced in Bamyan. Each type serves different societal functions and reflects local customs. Notable varieties include payz氓r, a traditional shoe for farmers, and tubi-y茅 mard氓na, a simpler version made from rubber. Other types like 膷apli and kapi cater to specific sub-groups such as nomads and shepherds, while the introduction of European-inspired boots (but) represents a shift towards modernity. The market values for these shoes vary, with traditional, durable types commanding higher prices than modern rubber variants.
4. Cultural Influences and Modernization
The article describes how modern influences, especially from Western styles, have begun to alter traditional footwear practices in Afghanistan. While many shoes retain their unique cultural characteristics, the increasing availability of imported materials and contemporary designs has led to changes in production and consumer preferences. This shift is evidenced by the growing differentiation in shoe design, marking a move toward accommodating what are perceived as more modern standards of footwear, including aspects like fitting for right and left feet.
5. Conclusion
In conclusion, the intricate craft of shoemaking in Bamyan reflects a rich cultural heritage that is adapting to the pressures of modernity and external influences. The work of Kieffer and Redard highlights the importance of documenting such artisanal practices, as they encapsulate not just local dialects and terminologies but also the evolving identities and economic realities of the inhabitants. The variety of footwear produced indicates a blend of traditional knowledge and contemporary adaptation, showcasing the resilience and resourcefulness of Afghan artisans in a changing world.
FAQ section (important questions/answers):
What factors contribute to the diversity of shoe production in Bamyan?
The diversity in shoe production in Bamyan is due to various factors, such as the geographical terrain, climatic conditions, and the economic activities of both farmers and nomads, leading to a wide range of footwear designed for different needs.
What is the significance of the cordonnier in Bamyan?
The cordonnier, or shoemaker, plays a crucial role in Bamyan's artisan community. With limited options for footwear, the cordonnier provides essential services to locals, creating various types of durable shoes necessary for navigating the challenging local terrain.
What materials are traditionally used for making shoes in Bamyan?
Traditionally, Bamyan shoemakers use leather from cows, sheep, and goats. However, due to the scarcity of quality leather, rubber from used tires is increasingly used for shoe soles, providing an affordable and durable alternative.
What are the different types of shoes commonly made in Bamyan?
Bamyan shoemakers produce several shoe types, including payz氓r for farmers, tubi for men, 膷apli for both genders, kapi for shepherds, and but, an imported European style, indicating a blend of traditional craftsmanship with modern influences.
How has Western influence changed traditional shoe-making practices in Bamyan?
Western influence has led to changes in shoe-making practices, including the introduction of different shoe types and the differentiation between left and right footwear, which was previously uncommon in traditional designs.
What tools are commonly found in a cordonnier's workshop in Bamyan?
A cordonnier's workshop typically contains tools like scissors, chisels, hammers, needles, and special knives for cutting rubber. These are essential for crafting and repairing shoes, emphasizing the meticulous nature of shoemaking in Bamyan.
Glossary definitions and references:
Oriental and Historical glossary list for 鈥淭raditional Shoe Making in Bamyan: A Study of Afghan Dialects鈥�. This list explains important keywords that occur in this article and links it to the glossary for a better understanding of that concept in the context of History, Linguistics, Religion, Philosophy, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism etc.
1) Bamyan:
Bamyan, situated at the heart of the Hazarajat in Afghanistan, is renowned for its giant Buddha statues and serves as a critical artisanal hub for around 10,000 inhabitants, including a notable number of cobblers producing unique footwear types for the region.
2) Kapi:
Kapi refers to a type of footwear specifically designed for shepherds. This robust, leather shoe is known for its comprehensive coverage, which includes a wide contrefort and leather lacings known as 'band'. The article mentions it as being essential for harsh terrains.
3) Afghanistan:
Afghanistan is the broader regional context of the study. The countrywide practices of shoe fabrication and the diversity in material and terminologies from regions like Kabul, Fayzabad, and Bamyan are central to understanding local dialects and customs.
4) Litt:
Litt (literally) appears in linguistic explanations and translations. It is used to render precise meanings or connotations in local dialects, such as 鈥榣itt. small end鈥� for 'kunak' (heel) or 鈥榣itt. knife鈥� for '膷angk氓rd' (curved knife).
5) Mardana:
Mardana implies 'for men' and is part of the shoe typology. It denotes specific footwear designs tailored for male usage, distinguishing them from 'zan氓na' types meant for women. E.g., payz氓r-茅 mardana is a robust shoe model for men.
6) Shari (Sari):
Sari relates to the front section of the shoe, often referred to as the 'sari-kapi'. The term is used in describing how the shoe is sectioned off into functional parts such as the heel (kunak) and anterior (sari).
7) Pakistan:
Pakistan is mentioned in the context of chappal-style shoes, which were initially imported from Peshawar. The chappal design has become prevalent in Afghanistan through the movements of nomadic populations trading across borders.
8) Tandi (Tamdi):
Tandi specifically is not mentioned in the text. It鈥檚 possible it could refer to a word or context not fully covered or known within the given text. Without further context, its relevance remains unclear.
9) Nayak:
Nayak is referenced as a destination along the route from Kabul, where Bamyan serves as a provisioning stop. It emphasizes Bamyan's role as a significant waystation which historically served caravan routes now replaced by truck routes.
10) Kadan:
Kadan in the context of the text refers to processes such as 'lays kadan' for flattening rubber. It signifies the craftsmanship and methodologies employed by cobblers in the intricate shoe fabrication process.
11) Muni:
Muni, in the context given, likely relates to 'muni ta膷ing毛', which denotes goat-skin shoes traditional to certain ethnic groups like the Kafirs. These specialized terms indicate the cultural and material specificity in Afghan shoe craftsmanship.
12) Tali:
Tali denotes the sole of the shoe. This term is critical in cataloging various types of traditional and modern footwear, describing how soles are sourced and prepared, whether from leather, rubber, or other materials.
13) Pari:
Pari is not specifically mentioned in the provided text. No mentions of fairies or other significances within this context are noted, making its relevance in the documentation unclear.
14) Goat skin (Goat's skin):
Goat skin (t茅ka-茅 gusfand/boz) is one of the primary materials in traditional Afghan shoemaking. It is particularly used for making thinner, more affordable soles, highlighting the resourceful and varied use of local animal products.
15) Transformation (Transform, Transforming):
Transformation describes the influence of modernization and Western styles on traditional Afghan footwear. The shift to using terms like 'boot' and creating right/left foot distinctions are examples of these evolving trends.
16) Village:
Village refers to small communities like Bamyan, which are central to this study. These villages are the hubs where traditional craftsmanship such as shoemaking continues to thrive despite modern influences.
17) Servant:
Servant refers to lower economic classes like domestic helpers who are now seen adopting more modern footwear such as shoes or boots bought second-hand from bazaars, reflecting socio-economic changes in Afghanistan.
18) Costume:
Costume references traditional Afghan clothing which is being influenced by Western styles. Footwear described in the text indicates a shift where even traditional outfits are incorporating modern elements.
19) Leather:
Leather (膷arm) is the conventional primary material used in producing Afghan shoes. Different qualities and sources of leather (cow, sheep, goat) are discussed, demonstrating its importance in local craftsmanship.
20) Dutaka:
Dutaka, or *duxtaka, is a linguistic explanation for the origins of the term 鈥榙i膷i鈥� (shoes) in ormuri. It showcases the text's effort to delve into etymologies of local dialect terms.
21) Bengal (Bemgal):
Bengal refers to The Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, which is cited in this text indicating historical context and prior studies related to Afghan and adjacent regional footwear traditions.
22) Jishta (Jista):
Jista or n臎kter茅 specifics 'jista' for shoes with high heels, indicating the detailed categorization in types and styles of footwear within various Afghan dialects and cultural contexts documented in linguistic studies.
23) Woman (Women):
Woman (zan氓na) references types of shoes designed for females. An example included in the study is payz氓r-茅 zan氓na, a distinctive footwear type with characteristics like long-point shoes embossed with leather.
24) Court:
Court in this text isn't referenced. 鈥楥ourt鈥� might be a misinterpretation or transliteration error; it could be intended for context such as marketplace or community hubs integral to Afghan livelihoods.
25) Union:
Union refers to the USSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics), mentioned in the context of rubber galoshes imported from the Soviet Union. It demonstrates Afghanistan鈥檚 diverse trade influences.
26) Dari:
Dari (Afghan Dari) is the language context within which these terminologies and studies are framed. The study distinguishes between Persian and Afghan Dari for these shoe-related terminologies and dialects.
27) Pina:
Pina in the context of a cobbler refers to a piece of material used for repairing shoes. It appears in compound words like pinadoz, indicating a cobbler specializing in mending rather than creating new footwear.
28) Pashi (Pasi):
Pasi refers to the back section of footwear, such as the 鈥榩asi-sari鈥� (the posterior part). This functional distinction helps in understanding shoe assembly in traditional Afghan cobbling.
29) Venu:
Venu, the past participle of venir (to come), suggests origin or arrival from another place. Boots 鈥榲enu par l'Inde鈥� points out footwear influences reaching Afghanistan through India.
30) Papin (Papi):
Papi is referenced as an ethnographic work, 'Les Papis,' giving brief mentions or indications about footwear-related cultural instances. It hints toward the broader ethnographic context of the study.
31) Aman (A-man):
Aman refers to Dar-ul-Aman, a region near Kabul known for its distinct terminologies (鈥樐峚pl猫y鈥� for 膷apli), indicating regional variances in dialect even within a relatively small geographic area.
32) Heel (H茅el):
Heel, such as 鈥榯氓pa鈥� for the heel piece or contouring technique in Afghan footwear, emphasizes parts of the shoe vital for structure and durability. Distinguishing 鈥榟eel鈥� showcases design intricacies.
33) Fort:
Fort in the specific term 鈥榗ontrefort鈥� relates to reinforced back sections of shoes. It demonstrates the structural components that differentiate shoe types like the robust shepherd's kapi.