Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Dress Making: Embroidery� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
3.5. Dress Making: Embroidery
The art of embroidery was known to people since Vedic times. Usually embroidered clothes were a sign of aristocracy. Clothes were embroidered with various designs. Sometimes golden threads were employed in embroidery.
ʱś, Atka and Drāpi are some kinds of embroidered clothes mentioned in ṻ岹[1]. In one place, Maruts are described as wearing golden Atka. In ᲹԱⲹ-ṃh[2], a woman who stitches ʱś is named as Peśakārī. In ṛhṇy첹-ܱ貹Ծṣa[3] also the term Peśakārī is used to indicate a lady embroider.
The word Ārokha in Śٲ貹ٳ-ṇa[4] indicates clothes having designs of flowers, stars and other patterns. From the description of the Uṣas in ṻ岹[5], it can be inferred that young women wore clothes having embroidery works in golden threads. In one place, the horizons at sunrise and sunset are compared to the gold and red borders on each ends of a cloth. ʲñṃśa-ṇa[6] mentions հٲⲹ attired in clothes having blue borders. We have also reference to ī with decorated edges. Clothes were decorated with ճṣa (Chaff) also. All these information point to the fact that Vedic people were experts in the art of embroidery.
In ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[7], we read of the embroidered apparel of ī and 屹ṇa. There in a context, we come across, ī’s golden embroidered ٳٲīⲹ sticking into the blades of grass[8]. 屹ṇa’s night garment was embellished with golden fibers[9]. A wool embroidered with golden fibre made out of fox’s hair is mentioned in Ѳٲ[10].
[11] has mentioned silk clothes embroidered with swan designs very often. Haṃsacihnadukūla is a common expression.
Golden embroidered garments are mentioned by ٲṇḍ[12] also. In Buddhacarita[13], we come across ٳ clad in a cloth embellished with golden swan.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
IV.367, II.35.14,V.74.5,VI.29.3, IX.107.13, 100.9, I.25.13
[3]:
IV.4.5
[4]:
3.1.3; Kātyāyanaṃh, 23.1; ղٳپīⲹ-ṃh, 6.1.1
[5]:
I.92.4
[6]:
17.14
[7]:
II.100.17
[8]:
Ibid
[9]:
Ibid, V.5.100
[13]:
I.6,59