Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Upper Garments (d): Uttariya (unstitched cloth)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2.1. Upper Garments (d): ٳٲīⲹ (unstitched cloth)
ٳٲīⲹ was a long and broad unstitched cloth. Men and women wore ٳٲīⲹ in different styles. Whether ٳٲīⲹ was an item of dress of the common folk is not clear, for most of our knowledge regarding ٳٲīⲹ is supported by the references related to people belonging to the higher class in the society. However servants were not allowed to wear it. ٳٲīⲹ was compulsory during religious practices. It was sometimes embroidered as well as set with jewels. Plain as well as colourful types were in fashion. All sorts of materials were employed in its making. ٳٲīⲹ finds the earliest mention in ūٰ texts[1].
Among the different styles adopted by men in wearing ٳٲīⲹ, one method was to cover the upper part of the body omitting head, while in the second way, ٳٲīⲹ was merely thrown away over the shoulders in such a way that both of its ends hung down over the chest. Whether it is long enough to touch the feet is not known. As per another method, it was worn in the same way a ۲ñDZ貹īٲ was worn. Sometimes, ٳٲīⲹ was worn in such a manner, so as to cover the upper body, leaving the right arm naked. All these descriptions inform us that ٳٲīⲹ was a long piece of cloth. In 鲹ٲ屹ī[2], վūṣa첹 is described in one context as covering a picture board with his ٳٲīⲹ. 峾 in one place in ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[3] is seen wiping out the tears with the end of his ٳٲīⲹ. ٳٲīⲹ of women also was long. Sometimes it served the purpose of veil also.
In ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[4], we find ī throwing away her ٳٲīⲹ, amidst the Բ in Ṛṣⲹū첹 hill. This ٳٲīⲹ, later helped 峾 in proving the abduction of ī by 屹ṇa.
There it is stated thus�
[...].[5]
ղܳī, characterised by ٲṇḍ, in ٲśܳٲ[6] is seen attempting to suicide by means of her ٳٲīⲹ. All these references give indications to ٳٲīⲹ worn by ladies. Usually married women wore ٳٲīⲹ. It was not worn by young unmarried girls and also by women in grief. In Ѳٲ[7], we have reference to ܰ첹Բ roaming in the forest without an ٳٲīⲹ. Likewise the widows of Kaurava princes are depicted as moving to the battle field by covering their face with the end of the lower garment[8]. There we don’t have mention to ٳٲīⲹ. During their periods also women didn’t wear ٳٲīⲹ. ٰܱ貹ī was in her monthly period, when she was dragged into the assembly. She is described as Ekavastrā[9], meaning one wearing a single cloth. ٳٲīⲹ was not permissible for servants also. ٰܱ貹ī disguised as Իī of վṭa’s queen ܻṣṇ also is represented as Ekavastrā[10]. Married women usually wore colourful ٳٲīⲹ, while widows used white.
In Āśramaparva of Ѳٲ, the widows of the Kaurava princess, going to see their father in law are described thus -
[...],[11]
In Śܰṇa[12] it is stated that during the ceremonies, one should wear an ٳٲīⲹ and a Dhoutavastra.
The materials for ٳٲīⲹ were not only cloth. But we have even reference to ٳٲīⲹ made of grass and skin. Rich people usually wore ٳٲīⲹ of silk texture. Dukūlottarīya, Sitadukūlottarīya, Pītapattottarīya are some common expressions. Sometimes the borders of ٳٲīⲹ were beautifully decorated with settings of precious stones. alludes to such a type in 鲹ܱṃśa[13].
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
IVK, p.157
[2]:
NTAIS
[3]:
IV.5.7
[4]:
IV.6.11
[5]:
Ibid
[6]:
Pūrvapīṭhikā, Chapter I
[7]:
42.125
[8]:
XI.15.10, 99
[9]:
II.60.28, 30
[11]:
Āśramaparva, 25.16
[12]:
pp.13-18
[13]:
XVI.43