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Yarns prepared from the cocoon of silk worms living in certain trees were used to manufacture certain types of clothes. Some of the cloth materials prepared in this way are鈥�

a) 碍补耻艣别测补

According to some scholars, 碍补耻艣别测补 is produced from the cocoon of silkworms seen under the leaves of mulberry tree. Our writers have used the term 碍补耻艣别测补 mostly in connection with a women鈥檚 attire, though the cloth is common for both men and women. 笔腻峁噄苍颈^[1] and 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补^[2] call all sorts of silk clothes by the term 碍补耻艣别测补ka. 碍补耻艣别测补 clothes were given as presents and offerings. We have descriptions of 碍补耻艣别测补 of different colours. The expressions P墨takau艣eyav膩sin墨 and Raktakau艣eyav膩sin墨 are common. In 惭补迟蝉测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺^[3], 笔腻谤惫补迟墨 in one context is described as dressed in P墨takau艣eya.

In 惭补丑腻产丑腻谤补迟补, 厂耻产丑补诲谤腻 dressed as a cowherd is described thus鈥�

[...].^[4]

b) 笔补迟谤辞谤峁嘺

The term 笔补迟谤辞谤峁嘺 has been defined in many ways. One commentator of 础尘补谤补办辞艣补 defines 笔补迟谤辞谤峁嘺 thus -

[...].^[5],

While in the text, 笔补迟谤辞谤峁嘺 is stated as a washed silk. 碍补耻峁璱濒测补^[6] agrees with the interpretation of the commentator. 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补 has used the term 碍补耻艣别测补 patror峁嘺 in 惭腻濒补惫颈办腻驳苍颈尘颈迟谤补^[7], while describing M膩lavik膩. On this basis, some people are of opinion that 笔补迟谤辞谤峁嘺 is perhaps another variety of cloth other than silk and hence in their view, there 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补 refers to a cloth having a mixture of two materials.

c) 础峁兣泆办补

础峁兣泆办补 was used to denote all sorts of garments. Breast clothes were named Stan膩峁兣泆ka. Veils also were made of 础峁兣泆办补. 础峁兣泆办补 was dyed in various colours and was printed with different designs and some were gem studded also. These cloths were of different qualities. Some fine and costly variety was generally called as Var膩峁兣泆ka or Pa峁�峁�膩峁兣泆ka.

We come across Asit膩峁兣泆ka or 艢y膩m膩峁兣泆ka (Black), N墨l膩峁兣泆ka (Blue), Aru峁嚹佱箖艣uka (Reddish brown), 搁补办迟腻峁兣泆办补 (Red) etc. in the works of 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补^[8] and 叠腻峁嘺^[9]. Even though it is a variety of cloth, it is interesting that 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补^[10] has always mentioned the term 础峁兣泆办补 in connection with women鈥檚 dress. 叠丑腻蝉补^[11] has mentioned a white one, resembling the colour of 碍腻艣补 flower. In 碍补谤辫奴谤补尘补帽箩补谤墨^[12], we read of a parrot green 础峁兣泆办补. 惭补迟蝉测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺^[13] attests a yellow coloured one. Red coloured 础峁兣泆办补 was most popular especially among aristocrat ladies. They wore it on ceremonial occasions. In 搁补迟苍腻惫补濒墨^[14], we have a reference to the heroine attired in a 础峁兣泆办补 of red colour. We meet with a lady of high social status clothed in a pair of red 础峁兣泆办补 in 狈腻驳腻苍补苍诲补^[15] also. Similarly, 叠腻峁嘺^[16] has described the queen 驰补艣辞惫补迟墨 as covering her face with a veil of red 础峁兣泆办补.

础峁兣泆办补 painted or printed with different figures were called as Citr膩峁兣泆ka. References to such types are in plenty. The dress of 艢r墨 characterised by 叠腻峁嘺 in 贬补谤峁�a肠补谤颈迟补^[17] is a Citr膩峁兣泆ka, embellished with flower and bird patterns. In another place, 驰补艣辞惫补迟墨 is described as attired in 础峁兣泆办补 of wavy pattern^[18]. While describing the dressing of 峁氠梗颈诲补迟迟补, 叠峁沨补迟办补迟丑腻艣濒辞办补蝉补峁僩谤补丑补^[19] compares his floral designed 础峁兣泆办补 to a garden in spring with full blossoms.

d) 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补

颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 is a sub variety of 础峁兣泆办补. As its etymology indicates, the origin of this cloth is ascribed to the country China. It is usually white and shining. 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 is defined in B峁沨atkalpas奴trabh膩峁�ya^[20] in two ways. As per it, it is either a silk cloth made of the fibres prepared from the worms namely 碍辞艣补办腻谤补 or a cloth made in China. 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 was employed in both upper garments and lower garments. In addition to its use as garment, 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 was a material for royal banners also. It was a texture of people having good financial status and hence to entice the courtesans, such highly priced clothes were presented to them. 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 is sometimes called as C墨napa峁�峁璦.

Most of our references are to 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 of white colour. However, 叠丑腻谤补惫颈^[21] and 叠腻峁嘺^[22] have mentioned rainbow coloured 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补. 叠腻峁嘺^[23] has also referred to 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 decorated with various patterns. In 贬补谤峁�a肠补谤颈迟补, a breast garment in 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 is cited^[24], which gives indication to 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补 used as upper garments. Princess 颁补尘辫腻, characterized by 顿补峁囜笉颈^[25] in the story of Apah膩ravarman in 顿补艣补办耻尘腻谤补肠补谤颈迟补 is seen as clothed in a lower garment of 颁墨苍腻峁兣泆办补.

e) 笔补峁�峁�补

笔补峁�峁�补 is mentioned as a soft silk texture usually worn by aristocrats. It is also known as 笔补峁璱办腻. Some writers use the term 笔补峁�峁�补 in the sense of 顿耻办奴濒补. Use of 笔补峁�峁�补 is usually seen in lower garments.

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

. 础峁ａ弓腻诲丑测腻测墨, 6.3.42

[2]:

. 惭腻濒补惫颈办腻驳苍颈尘颈迟谤补, p.105; 峁歵耻蝉补峁僪腻谤补, V.8

[3]:

. 157.14

[4]:

. 膧诲颈辫补谤惫补, 221.19

[5]:

. 2.6.113

[6]:

. India as Seen in the 叠峁沨补迟蝉补峁僪颈迟腻 of 痴补谤腻丑补尘颈丑颈谤补, p.225

[7]:

. Act V

[8]:

. 峁歵耻蝉补峁僪腻谤补, VI.19, 痴颈办谤补尘辞谤惫补艣墨测补, III.12

[9]:

. 贬补谤峁�a肠补谤颈迟补, p.146, 32

[10]:

. 峁歵耻蝉补峁僪腻谤补, I.7, IV.3; 痴颈办谤补尘辞谤惫补艣墨测补, III.12; 搁补驳丑耻惫补峁兣沘, VI.75, XI.4.26; 碍耻尘腻谤补蝉补尘产丑补惫补, I.14

[11]:

. 笔谤补迟颈尘腻苍腻峁璦办补, Prologue

[12]:

. Act III

[13]:

. 162.324

[14]:

. I.20

[15]:

. Act IV

[16]:

. 贬补谤峁�a肠补谤颈迟补, 驰补艣辞惫补迟墨var峁嘺na

[17]:

. p.114

[18]:

. Ibid

[19]:

. pp.25,100

[20]:

. DAOAI, p.23

[21]:

. 碍颈谤腻迟腻谤箩耻苍墨测补 (碍颈谤腻迟腻谤箩耻苍墨测补),16.58

[22]:

. 贬补谤峁�a肠补谤颈迟补, p.78

[23]:

. Ibid, IV^th 鲍肠肠丑惫腻蝉补

[24]:

. Ibid, V^th 鲍肠肠丑惫腻蝉补

[25]:

. 顿补艣补办耻尘腻谤补肠补谤颈迟补, p.97